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How
to Build a Lined Ornamental Pond
 This
page is here to help you make an informed decision when
planning the construction of, and subsequently building,
a lined pond.
The steps below will show you the basic construction
techniques plus illustrate how to create a number of
additional and slightly more advanced features. (See
also ''How to Design a Lined Ornamental Pond''.)
Step 1 - Marking Out
In the position chosen, using a length of string, cord
or hose pipe, lay out the desired shape of the pond.
Try to avoid acute angles - gentle curving shapes look
better and allow easy laying of the lining material.
Step 2 - Excavation
Dig down to a depth of approximately eight to eleven
inches ensuring that the sides of the excavation slope
inwards at approximately 15 to 20 degrees which is 3
inches (7.6cm) in for every 9 inches (23cm) down. This
is to allow ice forming in the winter to rise up without
damaging the liner. This will be the first level, part
of which will become the marginal planting area. Using
a spirit level resting on to a straight piece of wood
or plank check to ensure the excavation is level in
all directions. Now mark out the shape and size of the
marginal planting areas.
The marginal planting areas should be 9 to15 inches
(23-38cm) wide and although they do not need to go all
the way around the pond you should allow a generous
area for most pleasing results when planted. Again,
dig down a further 9 to 12 inches (23-30cm) for the
next level. This will provide a planting area for lilies
and other deep water plants.If the ground allows and
is not too hard you can dig down a further level to
provide a deep water area which will increase the volume
of the pond and provide winter quarters for fish.
Finally, to allow for finishing off the outside perimeter
of the pond with flags, or similar, remove approximately
2 to 3 inch (5-7.6cm) depth of soil by the flag width
all the way around the outside of your excavation. The
marginal shelf depth, you will note, will now have been
reduced to the correct depth of approximately 6 to 9
inches (15-23cm).
 Step
3 - Preparation for Lining
When you are happy with the shape and contours of the
excavation carefully check to remove roots, sharp objects,
stones and anything else that may possibly damage the
liner. For best, long lasting results then lay pond
liner underlay over the entire interior contours. Pond
liner underlay is available in pre-packs and is essential
to protect the liner. It is also possible to use sand
as an underlay, held in position with damp newspapers,
although this method is messy, heavy work and much more
time-consuming. Old carpets can also be used but they
may decay and break up leaving the liner vulnerable
to stone and root damage. Pond liner underlay will not
rot and provides permanent protection.
 Step
4 - Laying the Liner
After carefully checking to make sure the liner is the
right size for the excavation loosely drape it over
the contours of the pool. Using a hosepipe begin to
fill. As the water level rises pull, tuck and smooth
the liner to shape as required. Do not worry if it appears
to be badly folded as when the pool is full of water
the water pressure compresses the folds into tight lines
which are not visible once the pond is planted up.
Step 5 - Finishing Off
Lay flags on mortar bed to pool perimeter, overlaying
the pond edge by approximately 2 inches (5cm).
Point between flag and liner. The mortar will resist
weathering better if a waterproofing agent is added
to it when mixing. Additionally, the surface of all
pointing can be treated, (after at least 21 days), with
G4 pond sealant to seal in toxic lime and to provide
further anti-weathering protection. Drain
the pond. Carefully wipe down liner and remove any construction
materials which have inadvertently dropped in. Refill
and add water conditioner in preparation for adding
plants. Plants should be added as soon as possible after
filling so that they may quickly become established
and assist in managing the pond water quality.
 Additional
& Advanced Features to Consider:
These will have to be incorporated within the stages
above and cannot be added afterwards.
1. Cobbled Beach
A cobbled beach effect should take up the whole of one
end of the pond with a broad, wide start across a large
area of the perimeter, narrowing and tapering inwards
towards a deeper area. Start a gradual slope inwards
about two inches from the planned water surface to a
point where the water will be 9 to 12 inches (23-30cm)
deep. Using natural stone or larger cobbles set into
mortar build a small retaining wall for the cobbles
in this deeper area. Working backwards from this point
to the surface level mix and lay a mortar layer approximately
half to three-quarter inch deep. Only spread as much
mortar as you are able to reach across at any one time.
Using river or sea cobbles, (sizes 3 to 6 inch (7.6-15cm)
provide the best effect for medium sized ponds and larger
Icelandic cobbles look better in the larger pond), press
these firmly into the mortar layer. Smooth off surplus
mortar. After the entire area has been covered with
cobbles leave until mortar is partially set (from 4
to 8 hours depending on air temperature and strength
of mix) and then brush off any remaining mortar with
stiff brush. Don't forget to add water-proofing powder
or liquid to mortar mix and for best results 21 to 28
days after laying paint over with G4 pool sealant.
 2.
Bog Area
In an area adjacent to the pond excavate to a depth
of 10 to 15 inches (25-38cm) over an area which is complementary
in size and shape to the profile of the pond. Using
a cheaper grade liner or heavy duty builders Visquine,
line the excavation and trim off at surrounding ground
surface level. Using a garden fork pierce the liner
on the bottom approximately every 24 inches (61cm) to
allow for a minimal amount of drainage. Using pea or
other lime free decorative gravel fill the entire area.
Bog and marginal plants can be placed directly into
the gravel. Do not use additional soil, fertiliser or
other planting mediums as this may sour in the damp
bog garden environment. If, over time there is evidence
of a foul smell, increase the number of drainage holes.
3. Natural Stone Surround
Perhaps the most widely used finishing off technique,
and one which is particularly suitable to formal garden
design, is the laying of a flag surround as described
above. For a more natural effect, and to completely
conceal all evidence that the pond is constructed from
a lining material, consider a natural stone surround. To
fit a natural stone surround you will need to make the
pond approximately 9 to 12 inches (23-30cm) wider round
the whole of the perimeter than the required marginal
shelf width. As for construction of the marginal
shelves, dig down approximately 9 inches but dig the
sides straight and not sloping as described above. Natural
stone of the appropriate size can then be positioned
all the way around the pond after first applying mortar
to the base and sides of the liner to ensure secure
fixing. The pond is then essentially lined with stone
all the way round and the marginal shelf is directly
in front of the stone. Point up and treat all exposed
mortar with G4 pond sealant as described previously.
 4.
Gravel Filled Planting Areas
Again, primarily to achieve a natural look, but also
to provide an environment which benefits the pond plants,
gravel filled areas may be considered. To construct
a gravel filled planting area for water lilies build
a natural stone retaining wall as large in diameter
as possible, of a shape which complements the pond design
in the deepest area of the pond. It should be about
10 to 12 inches (25-30cm) deep and secured to the pond
liner with mortar. Fill the resulting enclosure with
well washed pea or other lime free decorative gravel.
Water lily corms can be planted directly into the gravel.
To construct a gravel filled marginal shelf build a
stone retaining wall on the edge of the marginal shelf
secured with mortar as above. Fill the area with gravel
as described for the lily planting area. Marginal
plants can be planted directly into the gravel.
We do advise, however, that plants with penetrating
root systems, such as bullrushes and many reeds and
grasses, should be planted into the gravel still contained
within a mesh pond basket. The plant in its basket can
then be lifted and roots trimmed to avoid damage to
the pond liner.
Also see complementary information pages: Information
Helping you to Design a Lined Ornamental Pond.
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